I actually started doing research and writing about this topic a year ago after the FDA recalled Neutrogena and Aveeno sunscreens containing benzene, a cancer causing chemical. One year later, and the next biggest issue shook the sun care world: July 29th, Edgewell Personal Care issued a voluntary nationwide recall of Banana Boat Hair & Scalp Sunscreen due to benzene presence. Interestingly enough, the benzene is from the aerosol cans, not the actual formula of the sun screen. Nonetheless, there is an ever-present issue with the skin and beauty care in America, especially the sunscreen industry as it is targeted to all populations and demographics.
In the past year, numerous new studies published by the European Commission have raised concerns about endocrine-disrupting effects from three ingredients commonly found in sunscreens: homosalate, avobenzone, and octocrylene. The EC proposed that 2.2% of oxybenzone and 1.4% of homosalate should be the concentrated limit as current amounts were determined unsafe. This is Europe’s policy…but what is happening in the United States? U.S. sunscreen manufacturers can legally use oxybenzone and homosalate at concentrations up to 6% and 15%, respectively, and hundreds of sunscreens surpass the recommended limit proposed by the European Commission.
Below is a list of common active ingredients found in sunscreens that are approved by the FDA as of 07/15/2021:
Avobenzone
Cinoxate
Dioxybenzone
Homosalate
Meradimate
Octocrylene
Octinoxate
Octisalate
Oxybenzone
Padimate O
Ensulizole
Sulisobenzone
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
The only two active ingredients that are classified as safe and effective by the FDA are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Yep, you read that right. Even though all these chemicals are found in multitudes of sun protectant products (anyone use Supergoop?), the FDA stated that there is insufficient data to make a conclusion that cinoxate, dioxybenzone, ensulizole, homosalate, meradimate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, padimate O, sulisobenzone, oxybenzone, and avobenzone are safe for topical usage.
Let’s dive a bit deeper into the research and what you can do to safely prevent overexposure to UVA and UVB rays.
There is a great volume out of Toxicity Reports called Neurotoxic effect of active ingredients in sunscreen products that reviews active sunscreen ingredients linked to developmental and endocrine impairments (both pathology and related mechanisms). It is important to remind ourselves that the skin is the largest organ that can easily absorb substances it comes into contact with. Through systemic circulation, chemical UV filters permeate the skin and accumulate in various tissues, liver, and the brain. The journal article states that some of these sun-protectant chemicals were found in urine, plasma, and even the placenta of pregnant women. EWG has an article exposing the negative side effects of each common active ingredient found in sunscreens and cites studies linking these chemicals to higher probability of women having breast cancer and endometriosis, and lower testosterone in males. Unfortunately, sunscreen is not the only skin care product that can prove negative to human health and wellbeing, however it is the most widespread topical product that the healthcare industry advocates for, with little concern about the chemical makeup.
So what can you do to prevent sunburns while also avoiding sunscreens? The foundation of sun tolerance is melanin. The more melanin you have, the stronger ability your body has to absorb harmful UV radiation, thus protecting your cells against DNA damage.Yes, everyone has different genetic makeup and melanin levels, however you can implement the following techniques to reduce your chance of burning:
First, know your sun limits i.e. don’t let yourself burn. Sun exposure is extremely important but not everyone has the same photosynthesis abilities - it truly depends on your melanin production. Read my post about Vitamin D as I dive more into the different skin types and the effects of sun exposure. If you know your body is susceptible to sunburns, wear a nontoxic sunscreen - look for brands that only use titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. My go-to brands are ThinkSport, Derma E, and All Good.
Start to slowly increase your melanin production by getting sun exposure during early morning or late afternoon sun. Again, be mindful of burning - avoiding the highest UV rays will allow your body to slowly start producing more melanin and thus, decrease your susceptibility to sun burns.
Decrease oxidative stress by reducing seed oils, alcohol, NSAIDs consumption, exposure to free radicals, and other inflammation instigators.
Studies show that PUFA oxidative degradation can intensify the toxic force of free radicals in the body. ROS (reactive oxygen species) and RNS (reactive nitrogen species) instigates lipid peroxidation which results in the formation of these lipid radicals and highly reactive aldehydes. This causes damage to proteins, lipids, and DNA, and thus results in cellular function deterioration.
Both endogenous and exogenous sources produce free radicals. Immune cell activation, inflammation, infection, cancer, over exercising, mental stress, and aging are all factors that cause endogenous free radical production. Exogenous free radical production can occur as a result of exposure to environmental pollutants, heavy metals, certain drugs, chemical solvents, cooking (e.g. used oil), cigarette smoke, alcohol, and radiations.
TAKEAWAY:
Read the ingredient label on your food and skincare products, and ensure you are ingesting or applying safe ingredients. Be your own advocate! We know the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and European Medicines Agency take different approaches when analyzing product safety. Use apps like Think Dirty (https://thinkdirtyapp.com) and Yuka (https://yuka.io/en/), or websites like EWG (https://www.ewg.org) where you can research any product brand and read about each ingredient.
FUN FACT:
Does a sun protectant factor (SPF) level over 30 matter?
Broad spectrum sunscreens protect against both UVA and UVB rays. The active ingredients in sunscreen are what prevents UV from penetrating the skin. A 30 SPF sunscreen absorbs approximately 95–98% of solar UVB radiation. The skin’s capacity to produce vitamin D3 is reduced by the same amount i.e. 95–98% when sunscreen with an SPF of 30 is topically applied. The higher SPFs don’t really block the sun’s rays extensively more than 30 SPF and even worse, higher SPFs contain higher concentrations of active chemicals that pose the health risks discussed above.
Sources:
Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. “Edgewell Personal Care Issues Voluntary Nationwide Recall of Banana Boat Hair & Scalp Sunscreen Due to the Presence of Benzene.” U.S. Food and Drug Administration, FDA, https://www.fda.gov/safety/recalls-market-withdrawals-safety-alerts/edgewell-personal-care-issues-voluntary-nationwide-recall-banana-boat-hair-scalp-sunscreen-due.
Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. “Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc.. Issues Voluntary Recall of Specific Neutrogena® and Aveeno® Aerosol Sunscreen Products Due to the Presence of Benzene.” U.S. Food and Drug Administration, FDA, https://www.fda.gov/safety/recalls-market-withdrawals-safety-alerts/johnson-johnson-consumer-inc-issues-voluntary-recall-specific-neutrogenar-and-aveenor-aerosol.
Emanuelli, Monica, et al. “The Double-Edged Sword of Oxidative Stress in Skin Damage and Melanoma: From Physiopathology to Therapeutical Approaches.” MDPI, Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute, 23 Mar. 2022, https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/11/4/612/htm.
“FDA Will Publish Proposed Rule for OTC Sunscreen Drug Products: Bergeson & Campbell.” FDA Will Publish Proposed Rule for OTC Sunscreen Drug Products | Bergeson & Campbell, https://www.lawbc.com/print/regulatory-developments/entry/fda-will-publish-proposed-rule-for-otc-sunscreen-drug-products1.
Pizzino, Gabriele, et al. “Oxidative Stress: Harms and Benefits for Human Health.” Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 2017, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5551541/.
Ruszkiewicz, Joanna A, et al. “Neurotoxic Effect of Active Ingredients in Sunscreen Products, a Contemporary Review.” Toxicology Reports, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 27 May 2017, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5615097/.
Sunscreens, EWG's Guide to. “EWG's Guide to Safer Sunscreens.” EWG, https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/.
Wacker, Matthias, and Michael F Holick. “Sunlight and Vitamin D: A Global Perspective for Health.” Dermato-Endocrinology, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 1 Jan. 2013, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3897598/.
“What Effect Do Melanin and Sunscreen Have on Vitamin D Levels?” Environmental Working Group, 16 Nov. 2022, https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/2022/05/what-effect-do-melanin-and-sunscreen-have-vitamin-d-levels.
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